Needlepoint guide

Choosing cross-stitch fabric: Aida, evenweave or linen

Updated October 5, 2026 by Khokhar Sab

Aida has a grid of clear holes. That makes it the easiest cross-stitch fabric to start on. Evenweave and linen have finer, single threads; you usually stitch over two threads, which makes 28-count evenweave give the same stitch size as 14-count Aida. Pick a lower count for bigger stitches that are easier to see, and a higher count for finer detail.

How cross-stitch fabric is counted

Every cross-stitch fabric has a count printed on the label. The count tells you how many squares or threads fit in one inch. It decides how big each stitch is, and so how big the finished piece is.

What the count measures depends on the fabric. On Aida, it counts squares, and you make one stitch in each square. On evenweave and linen, it counts single threads, and each stitch usually covers two of them. That difference is the main thing to understand before you choose.

Aida: the easy-to-count choice

Aida is woven in small blocks with a clear hole at each corner. You bring the needle up and down through those holes, so there is never any doubt about where the next stitch goes. Wool Warehouse describes it as a fairly stiff fabric that suits beginners because the holes are easy to find.

The fabric count converter lists Aida in 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 count. One stitch fills one square, so 14-count Aida gives 14 stitches per inch.

• Good for: first projects, children, bold designs and anyone who finds counting threads tiring.
• Less good for: designs full of half and quarter stitches. Aida has no hole in the middle of each square, so you have to pierce the fabric for a part stitch.
• The look: the grid shows between stitches, which gives a slightly blocky background.

Evenweave and linen: finer and more flexible

Evenweave is woven from single threads with the same number of threads per inch in both directions. That even spacing is where the name comes from. It is made from cotton or linen. Linen sold for cross stitch is an evenweave woven from flax.

The calculator lists evenweave and linen in 25, 28, 32, 36 count. Those numbers look high next to Aida, but you don't stitch into every hole. You usually stitch over two threads.

Because the grid is finer, there is a hole between every pair of threads. That makes half and quarter stitches much easier, since the middle of each stitch already has a hole. Wool Warehouse points to this extra flexibility as a reason to choose evenweave. The background also looks smoother, with no visible blocks.

Stitching over two, or over one

Over two means each cross covers a square two threads wide and two threads tall. The stitch count per inch is half the thread count:

stitches per inch = thread count ÷ threads per stitch.

So 28-count evenweave over two gives 28 ÷ 2 = 14 stitches per inch, exactly like 14-count Aida. A design 112 stitches wide comes out 8 inches on 14-count Aida and 8 inches on 28-count evenweave over two. The Needlework Tips and Techniques site makes the same comparison for readers moving off Aida.

Over one means each cross covers a single thread. On 28-count fabric that is 28 stitches per inch, so the same design shrinks to 4 inches wide. Over one gives very fine detail. Each stitch is tiny, so it takes more care and good light.

The table shows stitches per inch. Read it sideways to find matches: 32-count over two gives 16 stitches per inch, the same as 16-count Aida. 36-count over two gives 18, the same as 18-count Aida. The 25-count over two gives 12.5, which falls between 11 and 14-count Aida.

Fabric names you will see in shops

Shops often sell evenweave and linen under a brand or weave name rather than a plain count. Crewel Ghoul lists these common ones. The last two columns show what each matches when stitched over two, and how wide the 112 stitch example design comes out.

Fiber changes the feel. Willow Fabrics describes Aida as 100% cotton, evenweave as cotton, linen, rayon or a blend, and linen as flax with natural slubs, the small thick spots in the thread. Crewel Ghoul notes those slubs come from the natural fiber and that linen can cost more. Fat Quarter Shop names Lugana and Jobelan as rayon and cotton blends. Aida also comes in a wider range than the converter lists: Fat Quarter Shop gives 6 to 22 squares per inch.

Choosing cross-stitch fabric for your project

Start with the pattern. A pattern normally names the fabric and count it was designed for. If you swap fabrics, pick one with the same stitches per inch and your piece stays the same size. If you change the count on purpose, use the fabric count converter to see the new size and how much fabric to buy.

Then think about your eyes and hands. Lower counts mean bigger stitches that are easier to see and count. 11-count Aida gives the biggest stitches in the converter. 20-count Aida and 36-count linen make small, fine stitches that need good light and maybe a magnifier.

Think about thread, too. Bigger stitches use more floss per stitch. A stitch on 11-count fabric takes about 1.8 times the thread of a stitch on 20-count, since thread length grows with stitch size. The floss calculator works out skeins for your chosen count.

Finally, think about the finished look. Aida suits pieces with the fabric fully covered, or designs that want a crisp grid. Evenweave and linen suit pieces where bare fabric shows around the stitching, such as samplers, because the background looks like plain cloth.

Fabric color

CrossStitchStyleArte lists white, ivory, beige, colored and hand-dyed fabrics as the usual choices. Pick the background the finished piece needs. Crewel Ghoul notes that cross-stitch patterns usually leave the background fabric showing, and points to small dyers who sell hand-dyed Aida and linen. If you are unsure how a color will look, stitch a few crosses on a scrap first.

Other fabrics for special projects

• Easy-count Aida. Crewel Ghoul describes it as Aida printed with a grid that washes out, which helps if you miscount often.
• Waste canvas. A temporary grid for stitching on clothes or plain cotton. Crewel Ghoul says it comes as a polyester version you pull out thread by thread and a water-soluble version that dissolves when washed.
• Perforated paper. CrossStitchStyleArte lists it alongside the cloth fabrics as another surface to stitch on.

Tips for moving from Aida to evenweave

1. Pick a count you already know. 28-count over two matches the 14-count Aida you may be used to.
2. Count threads, not holes. Over two, the needle comes up in one hole and goes down two threads across and two threads up.
3. Use a hoop or frame. Evenweave is softer than Aida, so it helps to hold it taut.
4. Stitch a small sample first. A few rows on a scrap show how the count looks and whether it feels comfortable.

The Needlework Tips and Techniques site has a step-by-step page on switching from Aida to linen or evenweave. Wool Warehouse compares the fabrics in its guide to choosing needlecraft fabric. Crewel Ghoul's guide to cross stitch fabric types lists named fabrics and waste canvas. Willow Fabrics covers fibers in Aida, evenweave or linen. Fat Quarter Shop explains cloth count in how to choose the right cross stitch cloth, and CrossStitchStyleArte covers color and project size in how to choose the right fabric. If you work on needlepoint canvas instead, the canvas size calculator covers mesh sizes.

Sources and further reading

• Willow Fabrics: Aida, evenweave or linen.
• Fat Quarter Shop: how to choose the right cross stitch cloth.
• Crewel Ghoul: cross stitch fabric types.
• Wool Warehouse: choosing your needlecraft fabric.
• Needlework Tips and Techniques: switching from Aida to linen or evenweave.

Video tutorial

"Cross Stitch Fabrics | Aida, Evenweave and Linen Types and Counts" by Caterpillar Cross Stitch, on YouTube. The video loads only when you press play.